In today's Independent, a publication in the UK (after which a now defunct local newspaper had been named coincidentally) an excellent review of Tobago was written.

If the only news that gets out about a country is negative, then there will be a misguided perception that everything is bad in Trinidad and Tobago. When you destroy a country's reputation, you destroy its tourism industry and the livelihoods of many honest, hardworking Trinbagonians. So be sure to spread the good news and applaud Red Orbit and the Independent.

With Its Choice of Caribbean or Atlantic, Palm Tree or Rainforest, Dozing or Diving, and Three Types of Sand, This is a Paradise Island in the Sun Like No Other

By Marian Amos

WHAT'S DIFFERENT ABOUT TOBAGO?

So much more than simply another Caribbean island in the sun, Tobago offers a wealth of reasons to escape winter in Britain. Little sister to Trinidad and, thankfully, still relatively untouched by developers' claws, the island is home to picture postcard-perfect beaches (complete with obligatory palm trees), pristine coral reefs, and an abundance of flora and fauna - as well as the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere.

Tobago, which takes its name from the Carib word tavaco (originally meaning a pipe, then tobacco) also has shack-loads of charm. The ease and pace of Tobagonian life hits you the minute you step off the plane and snake slowly towards immigration - a tiny, scruffy two-roomed affair, utterly unprepared for the arrival of a jumbo jet. Yet, sedately, officials rubber-stamp 400 passports, endearingly greeting each traveller with a grin.

The dimensions of Tobago, 41km long and 12km wide, are uncannily close to those of the Isle of Wight. But Tobago has the advantage of lying just 11 degrees north of the Equator. The island has the Caribbean Sea on its leeward (western) side and the Atlantic Ocean on its windward (eastern) shores. And very different they are, too.

HOW SO?

The limestone plateau of the south-west tip is the most heavily developed part of Tobago. It is home to the larger resort hotels, with spas and golf courses. One reason for this is that it is significantly warmer and less windy than the north-east. It also has beaches that go on forever.

Far less populated, remote and barely touched by time, the north- east end features a series of secluded bays that are constantly buffeted by trade winds. Many birds lay claim not just to the sandy shores, but to a hinterland of dense, dripping rainforest, and so ornithologists converge here, and many catch the first boat to Little Tobago - a sea-bird sanctuary since 1924. The island is 2.5km north-east of Speyside, with an area of just 1 square kilometre, and is the playground of the red-billed tropic bird, the magnificent frigate bird, and boobies and terns.

I NEED A BEACH

Tobago has more than just golden beaches - its sand can be either ochre or honey-coloured or white. Relaxing on a beach - or elsewhere in Tobago - is called "liming" and is a national preoccupation most foreign visitors manage to emulate. You could begin your initiation at Pirate's Bay, a yellow horseshoe lapped by emerald waters, against a backdrop of ferns and trees. Or, on the windward side, Batteaux Bay, where you can swim beneath pelicans diving dramatically for their supper. There is some movie interest, too. On the horizon and below the rocky hills of tiny Goat Island sits one solitary building: the hurricane retreat of Ian Fleming. The creator of James Bond would go there (Tobago is just outside the hurricane belt) when he desired to be neither shaken nor stirred.

SO, WHERE WILL I STAY?

Most resort hotels and guest houses spread out from Crown Point. Some of the smartest establishments are dotted along the beaches between Bucco and Plymouth, with luxurious villas nudging up against Mount Irvine Golf Course. The resorts have all the usual amenities - pools, gyms and spa treatments.

The island's capital Scarborough offers more romantic retreats and plenty of inexpensive host homes. Blue Haven Hotel (001 868 660 7400; www.bluehavenho-tel.com) is definitely in the former category. It has been a magnet to A-list residents since the 1940s, and sits quietly in Bacolet Bay, a 10-minute walk outside the capital. It has 55 immaculate rooms, including 10 suites, on a site that was originally an outpost of Fort King George. Doubles from $238 ([pound]132), with a lavish breakfast buffet an extra $15 ([pound]8) per person. A villa suite, with two bedrooms plus pool, costs from $585 ([pound]325).

Those wanting to escape the more populated tourist spots should head south-east for the idyllically situated Speyside. Approached from the airport by rough roads, hairpin bends, sheer inclines and steep declines, the one-and-a-half-hour journey is worth every jolt. The Speyside Inn on Main Road (001 868 660 4852; www.speysideinn.com) lies in the lush foothills of this fishing village, a few metres from Tyrrel's Bay. It offers a choice of cabins with balconies, or bungalows whose balconies open on to gardens. There's also an excellent restaurant. Popular with divers because of proximity to Japanese Gardens, Bookends and Blackjack Hole reefs. Doubles from $132 ([pound]74), with breakfast.

I WANT TO BE ALONE

For even greater isolation, there's the Blue Waters Inn (001 868 660 4341; www.bluewatersinn.com). This is slightly further north- east, and is the sole occupant of the beautiful Batteaux Bay. It is separated from Speyside village by a steep walk. Again popular with divers, and also snorkellers, birdwatchers and families, this 38- room hotel with three self-catering bungalows was named Best Caribbean Eco Resort by Caribbean World magazine in 2002 and 2003. Although considered the grandest hotel in Speyside, some of its decor and fittings are now slightly crumbling, but that is swiftly forgiven due to its perfect location. Doubles from $175 ([pound]97), with breakfast $18 ([pound]10) per person, and two-bedroom bungalows from $505 ([pound]280).

Alternatively, from Speyside take the Windward Road north, climbing steeply through mountainous vegetation before plunging down towards the Caribbean waters of Charlotteville. You'll see boats bobbing on the glassy sea in the bay, as this is one of Tobago's foremost fishing communities. Banana Boat Inn, 6 Mac's Lane (001 868 660 6176; www.banana-boat-tobago.com) is a quirky new eight-room hotel, on the shore of Man O'War Bay. The Bistro serves traditional dishes such as Trini shrimp and coconut curry. With doubles from $60 ([pound]33) with air conditioning, and a third less for rooms with fans, it's perfect for that rare species in Tobago, the budget traveller - with the bonus that your host is also a PADI diving instructor.

GOOD DIVING, THEN?

Yes, at more than 20 dive sites. The shores have plenty of coral reefs, and are rewarding for novices and experts alike, as they are surprisingly undeveloped. With over 300 types of coral and countless fish, including parrot fish, and every sort of angel fish, the waters surrounding Tobago have international drift-dive recognition. You can swim among dolphins, manta rays, turtles and sharks, as well as the rarer shortnose batfish and toadfish.

The real challenge, for expert divers with local guides, is the deep London Bridge dive. Here, the ocean's forces have engineered a natural arch amid the swirling currents off the coast at Charlotteville. The rock "bridge" crowns large ocean pinnacles rising up from a depth of 30 metres. Divers can ride the rapids one at a time through a porthole arch, then dramatically drop and explore the folds and canyons of the pinnacle base. Colonies of star and brain coral abound, sponges cling to the walls, while tangs and trumpetfish keep patrol. Elsewhere, pirate ships, Spanish galleons and Second World War vessels lie on the sea floor.

Snorkelling, a slightly more sedate pursuit, is similarly rewarding. Arnos Vale, in the north-west, offers some of the best, and in relatively sheltered conditions. Angel Reef, just off Little Tobago in Batteaux Bay, is perfect territory for inexperienced and younger snorkellers, who can see puffer fish, parrot fish and pipe fish swimming among the dead man's fingers and sea-fan corals.

The seas off the island can be rough, and riptides are numerous. Always check conditions and weather reports before you set off. It's also worth contacting the Association of Tobago Dive Operators for advice and specialists (www.tobagoscubadiving.com).

Manta Dive Centre (001 686 639 9969; www.mantadive.com), on Pigeon Point Road, operates a selection of dive trips costing from $35 ([pound]20), with a PADI Scuba Diver course (including two dives) for $190 ([pound]106), including licence, logbook and equipment.

Aquamarine Dive (001 868 639 4416; www.aquamarinedive.com) operates in the north-east, and runs dive tours and intensive four- day PADI certification courses, costing $460 ([pound]256), inclusive of equipment.

ADVENTURES OVERLAND?

With Tobago home to such a wide variety of plants and wildlife (birds, insects, snakes, bats, frogs...), it is well worth venturing into the ancient depths of the Forest Reserve. Hurricane Flora, in 1963, had a marked effect on the region, reducing the height of the forest canopy from 50m to 20m. It is best visited either very early or after dark to witness all the nocturnal goings-on.

To make the most of the experience, it pays to find a guide. Curtis Lovelace, a local police special constable, is also a certified expert on the natural history of the island. He will collect you from your hotel and commence an intensive yet entertaining lesson on all aspects of island life. You'll quickly learn to recognise the legendary immortelle tree, with its orange- red flowers. The journey continues further inland, with patches of cocoa plants and papaya, waiting to ripen; and sugar cane, once the major cash crop, now only growing wild. The forest comprises teaks, Caribbean pines, cedars and mahoganies. With luck, you might see a giant blue monarch butterfly, hear the whistling frogs, and pick up the frantic beating of the tiny white-tailed hummingbird. Curtis Lovelace can be contacted directly in Roxborough (001 868 660 6557; csamlovelace@hotmail.com); he charges $50 ([pound]27) for a two- hour guided trip in the rainforest, including a visit to Argyll Falls.

ANY URBAN LIFE?

Follow Fort Main Street as it climbs its way up from Upper Scarborough to Fort King George - combining a museum, lighthouse and Tobago General Hospital. The fort, now wonderfully restored, was occupied by the French between 1781 and 1793; it was they who built the sturdy perimeter stone walls.

You sense the history as you stand alongside the profusion of cannons directed out to sea. Tobago Museum (open 9am-5pm Monday to Friday; adults TT$5/[pound]4.50; 001 868 639 3970) showcases various artefacts, including Amerindian plates, tools, talismans dating back to 2500BC, and pre-Columbian nostril bowls, used to inhale tobacco water. Ancient maps, satirical colonial prints and military paraphernalia fill the lower areas, with the top floors displaying African art and drums, as well as logs and notes on the sale of slaves, reflecting the harsh history of some of Tobago's citizens.

WHAT WILL I EAT AND DRINK?

A decent meal in Tobago comprises locally caught fish, freshly grilled, served with rice and beans, and washed down with a cold Carib beer. But there is plenty more on offer.

There is an abundance of pineapple, papaya, banana and mango. Try callaloo, a spinach-like leaf cooked into a rich green sauce with curried goat, lamb or chicken. Stop for lunch on the run in Scarborough at one of the many beer, rum and roti (flatbread with fillings) shacks. Experience the afterglow of a rum punch with a dash of Angostura Bitters, the local top-secret blend of herbs and spices that dates back to 1824.

For a more formal dining experience, but in unusual surroundings, Jemma's Tree-house (Main Road, Speyside; 001 868 660 4066) is exactly as it sounds: a restaurant perched in the boughs of an old almond tree, serving ocean views with every order of delicious lobster with garlic butter, or fresh tuna with orange and baked chicken. Main courses are amply accompanied by Creole side dishes, such as stir-fried vegetables and Tanya fritters. Alcohol is not served. Main courses start at TT$150 ([pound]13.50).

Or you could sample the menu at Dillon's (Milford Road, Crown Point; 001 868 639 8765), one of Tobago's deep-sea fishing-boat operators. Try fresh snapper with lemon butter sauce, grilled shrimp with parmesan polenta, or curried shrimp with mango chutney. Main courses around TT$120 ([pound]11).

WHEN SHOULD I GO?

Prime time is between now and March - the rainy season is over but plants are in full bloom and surf is at its highest. And, as a grand finale, there's carnival. (To see leatherback turtles laying their eggs, go between March and July, and head for Stone Haven Bay and Great Courland Bay.)

HOW DO I GET THERE?

From Gatwick, almost certainly. The easiest option is the Thursday 747 with Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007; www.virgin- atlantic.com), which takes about nine hours non-stop to Tobago's Crown Point airport. British Air ways (0870 850 9 850; www.ba.com) flies more frequently (on Mondays, Thursday and Saturdays, though Monday departure ceases end of March) but stops en route at Antigua. Both airlines have economy fares starting at around [pound]400.

CAN I OPT FOR A PACKAGE?

Yes. For the keenest prices, go for a mass-market operator such as Virgin Holidays, which has online deals through www.vir- ginholidays.com that can get you a week at the Turtle Beach resort for [pound]743, including flights from Gatwick and room-only accommodation. Specialist tour operators that provide a personal service and tailor-make holidays include Just Caribbean (01704 778188; www.justcaribbean.com).

WHERE CAN I FIND OUT MORE?

The Tourism Development Company office at the Maritime Centre, Barataria, Trinidad (001 868 675 7034; www.visittnt.com); and the UK tourist-information line: 01372 469818.

ISLAND HOPPING

You can take a trip to Trinidad on the T&T Express, a ferry with a passenger capacity of 900, and room for 200 cars, who made her maiden voyage this month. She sails from Scarborough to Port of Spain each day at 5pm, except on Wednesday, when she leaves at noon, with return journeys from Port of Spain at 6.30pm, every day except Sunday (8.30pm).

For higher-speed island hopping, Tobago Express (www.tobagoexpress.com) operates 12 flights each way per day between Tobago and Piarco airport in Trinidad. The 25-minute flight costs TT$150 ([pound]13.50).

From here, mainland South America is temptingly close, and Aeropostal (www.aero postal.com) flies from Trinidad's Piarco airport to Caracas in 70 minutes, for a one-way fare of $177 ([pound]98).

Alternatively, specialists such as Journey Latin America (020- 8747 3108; www.journey latinamerica.co.uk) can arrange a private charter boat for you between the two countries.

(c) 2007 Independent, The; London (UK). Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning. All rights Reserved.

Source: Independent, The; London (UK); Red Orbit